Last update: March 26, 2026
401(k) |
Annuity |
Pensions |
|
| Kind | “Defined contribution” | “Defined benefit” | |
| Who funds |
Member | Company1 | Company |
| Value at the end |
Depends on how investments do |
$38.50/mo. x # years worked2 | |
| Risk | Investment is at risk | Union guarantees the payout (no risk) |
|
| What’s nice about it |
Tax-Free3 | Don’t have to pay anything | |
| Who runs it | Company | Union | |
| How to get it started |
Tell Contractor how much to take out of paycheck when starting w/contractor, or Jan., or July. | Union already set it up |
|
| Control | Log in and choose how the $ is invested. |
Union makes all the decisions. |
|
| Website | EmpowerMyRetirement.com or the app |
NEBF pension: Login, Plan PDF: NEBF.com IBEW pension: Details |
|
| Fees | ? | $25/year | None(?) But you pay union dues. |
| 2025 performance | (no account) | 12% | (n/a) |
(1) See “Where to put your 20%...” below.
(2) Pension value. See separate section below.
(3) 401(k) being tax-free. Two flavors: With a traditional 401(k) your contributions are tax-free, you pay tax when you start withdrawing. With Roth IRA you pay tax on your contributions but your withdrawals are tax-free. It’s hard to say which is better, depends on your income tax rate at retirement. Since you have to choose something, Roth IRA is probably safest.
While you can put your own $ into the Annuity, you generally shouldn’t.
As per 50/30/20 you should be putting 20% of your after-tax earnings into investments, and you can put $23k into the 401(k) tax free, which is what you should do as long as you’re making less than $115/yr.
Once you start making more than $115k/yr. and you’ve maxed out your 401(k), open a Roth IRA account which lets you put in more $ tax-free.
Once you’ve maxed out your Roth IRA, it's better to put the 20% into a personal brokerage account (like Robinhood) rather than the Annuity, because you can't touch the annuity until you retire, and you get more diversity with your own account. Look into Motley Fool and REITs.
So, you’ll start with IBEW’s 3 plans, then eventually open a 4th (Roth IRA), then a 5th (personal brokerage account).
It’s called a 401(k) because that’s the section of the tax code that authorizes it.
Contributions you make reduce your taxes in the year you make them. When you withdraw at retirement, you pay taxes at that time, but you’ll probably be in a lower tax bracket then.
Example for the present:
$80,000 income
-15,000 put into 401(k)
$65,000 taxable income
Note to self: This is from the (new) mid-2025 CBA, on my SSD.
Periods. IBEW is super inconsistent about how they count periods. In the member section the website they say it's by hours worked (1500 hours each for P3-P6, which would be 9 months), but the CBA says P3+P4 are each a full year, then P5 + P6 happen in the same year
Why I thought your annuity payments by Rosendin were short. Under the old contract, annuity payments didn't start until Period 2. Under the new contract, Period 1 payments are 1%, Period 2 payments are 3%. Remind me to check your online account to make sure you got everything you're entitled to.
How much Rosendin pays in. From p. 14, amount the employer kicks in, monthly (not necessarily every paycheck), percentage of your earnings. The years don’t match the periods, I think IBEW screwed up the description. I'm waiting for a reply from Austin ETA / JATC.
What IBEW calls its “Annuity” isn’t a real annuity. This doesn’t really matter to you, but since you like to know stuff, here’s the difference.
| IBEW’s “Annuity” | Real Annuity | |
| Guaranteed Income | ❌ | ✅ |
| Market Risk | ✅ | ❌ (or limited) |
| Balance Visible | ✅ | Depends on type of annuity |
| Lump sum option | ✅ | Often limited |
| You choose the investment strategy | ❌ | ✅ |
| Age to start claming |
Work Required |
Work window |
% of full pension |
| 60 | ≥300 H | last 5Y | 81.5% |
| 61 | ≥300 H | last 6Y | 90.75% |
| 62 | 80% | ||
| 62 | ≥300 H | last 7Y | 100% (sweet spot) |
| 63 | 86.67 | ||
| 63 | ≥300 H | last 7Y | 100% |
| 64 |
93.33% |
||
| 65 | 100% |